The Positano Black Madonna
Friday, May 28th, 2010The 13th century icon that hangs in the Church of Santa Maria Assunta in Positano is one of the big attractions in this perfect town. The icon is mysterious and deep, and so is Positano. Coming into the town by car, one has to leave the car in a parking lot, and make the rest of the journey without the vehicle, because this is a pedestrian city. Walking to the Positano hotel for the first time, people notice that this is one of the most beautiful places on the planet, and start to understand why it’s sometimes called the city of the stairs.
The houses seem to hang on the side of the mountain, overlooking a beach that opens up into forever. Sea travel looks almost easier than transportation by car, and the constant view makes for lofty morning thoughts about how things got to be this way.
As if this weren’t enough, the story behind the Black Madonna is even more interesting, and there’s pirates involved. They’d been carrying the portrait with them after stealing it, and one night, in the middle of a terrible storm, the painting spoke, asking the pirates to put her down. Like any good pirate would, they stopped right away, in Positano, and set her to rest. The storm was quelled immediately. And she’d found her home.
There are a lot of stories about Black Madonnas , all over Europe and the Americas, and it’s a puzzle that doesn’t have an answer. The figures, paintings and sculptures, portraying her with dark skin, are the subject of a lot of debate. Some say they are only depicting her as a Semite, and they are merely realistic. It sounds plausible, but in the tradition of the religious iconography of the time, they come as a definite break. Some say the paintings have soot, but that’s been largely proven inaccurate. Still others claim that it’s a reference to a Gnostic tradition, and contains a much deeper mystery.
Whether it’s mystical, or folklore, or just a pretty painting, it’s worth seeing, and it makes up part of what Positano has come to be.
